When I purchased it and left it outside, the rainwater quickly found its way inside the rear hatch compartment. It turned out that this water leak is quite common on both the 280Z and 300ZX.

Unfortunately I wasted some money on trying to get this leak fixed before I looked into technical service bulletins. I figured since the hatch compartment was wet that the aging hatch seal must be the cause of the hatch water leak.

I purchased a new hatch gasket from the dealership and this cost me around $150. After replacing the hatch seal I anxiously waited for the next rainfall to come and go. To my disappointment after a hard rain the rear hatch compartment was again like a miniature swimming pool.

How to repair the 300ZX water leak

After my first attempt failed at repairing the hatch water leak I looked into technical service bulletins as well as performing an Internet search. Many Z owners had reported the same type of rain water leak. Find out more about Car Repair Bulletins here.

The technical service bulletin stated that the water was entering from the tail light assembly’s. The taillights on the 300ZX attach through the rear compartment wall. Water was dripping onto the threaded screws and traveling into the rear hatch compartment.

The fix was to completely seal the taillights assemblies and stop the water from reaching the threaded screws that entered the rear hatch compartment. The silicone sealing job did not look very neat but was very effective at stopping the water.

The good news was that when the hatch lid was closed there were no signs of silicone. So the messy silicone seal job was my dirty little secret and could not be seen by others checking out the overall beauty of my 300ZX.

Why you have to fix water leaks

Water collecting in the rear hatch compartment can be very destructive to the health of the overall automobile. Yes the main problem will be rust developing in the bottom of the hatch compartment. And trust me replacing the bottom of the hatch compartment is a lot more difficult than repairing a water leak.

Another destructive part about having water lying inside of the car is the increased humidity level inside the vehicle. This can greatly accelerate corrosion throughout the interior spaces of the automobile. Things like connectors and wiring harnesses will start to turn green and provide intermittent connections quickly. Also components such as control modules and relays can be negatively affected by a hatch full of water.

But one of the most destructive properties of an interior compartment full of water is the effect on the grounding locations. Vehicle system grounds can quickly become corroded in a humid environment.

Poor ground connections are often the first problem that develops from an interior water lake. Many weird electrical problems can start to develop from poor or intermittent ground connections. If you’re interested in what other repairs this car needed you can visit the Z section of this blog. This next link takes you there from this page about 300zx water leaks.

Locking gas cap

One of the most common OBD two codes would be for the evaporative emissions system. These codes were designed by the manufacturer and mandated by clean air laws.

Basically this is that the fuel system on every automobile must be completely sealed. No longer are you allowed to vent fuel vapor into the atmosphere.

This means that a storage and burning system is necessary to properly handle the naturally occurring fuel vaporization process.

Depending on the year make and model of the vehicle the codes set will usually be in the P0400 range. These codes when set will help you determine what the problem with the system may be.

When the fuel vapor system is determined to be leaking the severity of the leak is measured. Individual codes may set for a small leak, a medium-sized leak, or even a large fuel vapor leak.

Also in the P0400 range of codes will be specific codes for the canister and purge valve functions of the evaporation emissions system. All of the failures in the P0400 range could be considered common OBD codes. Again depending on the year make and model of the vehicle. But I have seen failures in all parts of the evap at one time or another.

OBD two evap systems leaks

OBD two monitors the evaporative system by testing the ability of the fuel tank to hold pressure as well as purging the system to vent petroleum fumes from the charcoal canister storage device. The most common way that this pressure test is deployed is with a small pump.

In this type of system the powertrain control module tests the evaporative emissions system by energizing the pump. As pressure builds the cycling rate of the pump decreases. If there is no leakage in the system the pressure builds until the pump shuts off.

Gas4Free Sponsored Ad

If there is a leak pressure does not build up and the pump continues to run until the test cycle is completed. If no leaks are detected by this test cycle the powertrain control module will move on and test the purge cycle.

Some systems have purge flow sensors between the solenoid and the intake manifold. In this case the PCM monitors the signal from the sensor once per drive cycle to determine if there is vapor flow at the proper levels into the intake manifold.

Note that on some GM vehicles enhanced monitors can detect leaks and restrictions in the system as well.

In these types of enhanced systems a poor sealing fuel cap or one that is missing is capable of turning on the check engine light.

The common gas cap obd two code

I’ve put together a video that discusses these common OBD two codes. Since the fuel cap is often removed for re-fueling this has become known as the weakest link in the system. Even if the gas cap is properly reinstalled the sealing ring between the cap And the filler neck can become nicked or worn over time. This often shows up as an Evap system code for a small fuel vapor leak.

Gas Cap Code Video

Also keep in mind when you’re vehicle sets the gas cap Code the check engine light will remain on even if the problem is intermittent. It is necessary after the repair is completed to clear the codes and retest the system.

For the latest posts and auto repair information this next link takes back to the home page from Common OBD two codes.

Solutions for check engine lights

Odometer 3.0L v6

How many miles can you put on a Nissan 3.0 Liter V-6. The answer to this question is similar to the answer of how many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie roll Tootsie Pop.

When I purchased my Nissan 300ZX it was from the original owner and the odometer was showing almost exactly 100,000 miles. My parents thought I was insane for buying a vehicle with such high mileage.

Back in my parent’s days when a vehicle reached the 100,000 mile mark it was time to throw it away and get another vehicle. But as we know today, we can get many more miles than we use to just 10 years ago.

The 150k mile mark is common place now. If the engine is well built and cared for 200,000 miles is well within reach for many drivers.

300ZX V-6 engine

I plan on dedicating a few posts to the 300zx repairs that were necessary while I owned this car. This car required more work than any other vehicle that I have owned before or since. But this post will be dedicated to the engine itself the mighty 3.0 L Nissan V6.

3L V6 300ZX

When I got this car with 100,000 miles on it I wasn’t sure how far the engine would go. Being a mechanic I figured that I would have to either overhaul or replace it at some point. The first thing I had to do after purchasing the Z. was to get it through state inspection.

The vehicle did fail for loose ball joints and alignment issues but it passed the emissions test with flying colors. Also notable was at 100,000 miles the 3 Liter V-6 had fantastic oil pressure at about 30 psi at 800 RPMs.

The engine had zero smoke emissions and purred like a kitten. I owned this car for about four years and put an additional hundred thousand miles on the Nissan v6 motor.

At that point the engine still had 25 psi of oil pressure at 800 RPMs. With the odometer showing 210,000 miles the day I sold the vehicle there was still no sign of smoke or any other signs of worn internal engine parts.

Now keep in mind that I am a mechanic and I loved this car with all my heart. It received oil changes every three months or 3000 miles religiously. So it was well cared for but still it exceeded all of my expectations about how many miles I could put on a Nissan 3.o Liter V-6.

Oil change tip for the v6 Nissan engines

As a side note every time you do an oil change on this engine the oil filter is located above the starter motor. When you remove the oil filter oil will run over the top of the starter motor. If you do not clean the oil off the starter it will eventually overheat and need to be replaced.

If you go to a quick lube, chances are they will not take the time to clean the area around the oil filter. You may want to double check this unless you do not mind replacing the starter every 5 years or so.

So I really can’t answer the question of how many miles you can put on your Nissan 3 Liter V-6 but as far as the engine in my 300ZX the last I heard it had over 240,000 miles on it and continued to pass state inspection and have good oil pressure. In my opinion Nissan makes a very stout V-6. If you take good care of it the skies are the limit for the longevity of this motor.

For more details about this car related blog the homepage is available from the next link. Go from the Nissan 3.0 Liter V-6 to auto repair information blog.

My 1988 300ZX

This story is about my 300ZX manual transmission. Specifically about how my ignorance completely destroyed it to the point that it could not be repaired. First some background information about the car and where it came from so the rest of the story makes some sense.

I was always attracted to the 300ZX sports car. When these vehicles first came out, I could not afford to get one. But in 1998 I decided that I could afford a 10-year-old one as a hobby car or investment. I found a 1988 300ZX 2+2 in pristine condition that was garage kept by the original owner.

I was living in New Jersey at the time and the Z was located in South Carolina. After talking with the owner and seeing pictures online I decided to take a road trip with a friend and go see the vehicle. It was everything that I hoped for and I negotiated a cash sale with the owner. I then had the vehicle shipped back to New Jersey.

I drove the vehicle for several months with absolutely no problems. This car was going to be a hobby car but wound up being my everyday transportation due to circumstances beyond my control. In Jersey We had a brutally cold winter in 1998. And as we got into late December my manual transmission on the Z began to make some noise while driving in any forward gear.

I checked the fluid level in the manual transmission and it was filled properly. But what I didn’t realize was that it was filled with 75W90 gear Oil. I continued to drive the vehicle out of necessity and the noise quickly got worse. The 300ZX came with the original owners manual from 1988. I checked the manual transmission fluid recommendations in the owners manual.

300ZX manual transmission facts

Manual for 300Z

To my surprise the 75W90 gear oil is recommended only for conditions above 40° the manual stated in colder conditions below 40° that automatic transmission fluid should be used. The gear oil worked fine while the vehicle was living in South Carolina. But the extreme cold of New Jersey thickened the lubricant to the point where it was not flowing properly through the transmission.

This lack of internal lubrication did an extreme amount of damage inside the transmission. I disassembled the unit and was extremely disappointed to find a lot of metal inside. But the problem was most of the metal was aluminum.

The case of a 300ZX manual transmission is all aluminum. The lack of lubrication caused case damage that made the five-speed FS5W71C unit unrepairable. Most of the steel gears, shafts, bearings and even the brass synchronizers were in good condition.

Used 300ZX five speed transmission

300Z manual transmission

When I started looking around for a replacement transmission there was not too many options. I had to get one from the junkyard and fix it up. When I replaced the transmission I also installed a new clutch kit and had the flywheel resurfaced.

The total bill for the repair was around $2000. And remember I did all of the work myself so there was no labor charges. And the moral of the story is, it was my own stupidity that destroyed the five-speed transmission. If I would’ve broken out my owners manual and read through it when I first bought the vehicle I could have avoided this expensive repair.

Also when this transmission first started to make noise I had a second chance at saving the day and reading the owner’s manual. I would have seen a temperature chart and recommended fluid application that would indicate automatic transmission fluid was needed.

The 300ZX repairs that where required on this car over the years taught me a lot of lessons about Nissan in general. In fact I have a story posted on my other website that describes how I repaired the 300zx digital dash in this car. That story has a much happier ending. For the latest posts to this blog this next link takes you to the homepage from 300ZX manual transmission to car repair information.

AC Manifold Guages

It may seem crazy to talk about car AC diagnostics in the middle of a snow storm. But by the time this page gets indexed and ranked you should be ready to turn on your vehicles air conditioning for the first time after a long winter of not using it.

On a previous post about air conditioning auto repairs I discussed how to test your system using manifold gauges. We also discussed how important the total charge of the system is to air-conditioning performance.

On this page will be some tips on how to deal with pressure readings that are out of specifications. Also included will be some best practices for Car AC diagnostics as well as running system AC performance testing properly. And don’t forget to wear safety equipment because freon is dangerous.

High side pressure readings

When you’re basing your diagnostics off of system pressure it is very important to refer to the pressure charts in your online auto repair manuals. These pressure readings will vary greatly with humidity and outside temperature.

Improper diagnosis is often caused by expecting an unrealistic reading on a hot humid day. With that said if you have determined that your pressure readings are truly off here are some tips on what they could actually mean.

AC Condensor

If the high side pressure is too high there could be air in the system, too much refrigerant, or a restriction in the high side of the system. Also poor airflow across the condenser can cause excessive high side readings.

Poor airflow across the condenser can be caused by a radiator fan not working properly or even debris or bugs caught in the condenser fins. In either case the airflow problem must be corrected before further testing takes place.

If the highside pressure is too low the most likely cause would be a low refrigerant level. But also a defective compressor can also cause a high-side pressure not to reach its full potential. Worn parts inside the compressor can cause this but it is recommended to assure the proper amount of Freon is in the system before condemning the compressor or replacing it.

Low side pressure readings

When diagnosing AC, low side readings are often the most critical to the output temperature of the system. To follow are a few examples of how to evaluate improper low side pressure readings on your Cars AC. If the low side pressure is higher than normal the most likely cause would be a refrigerant overcharge or a defective compressor. As mentioned above it is best to remove all of the Freon from the system and then specifically charge the correct amount before determining a bad compressor.

Orifice Tube

As mentioned on my car AC information pages on the YouFixCars.com website the manufacturer provides an exact amount of Freon that belongs in the system. This is usually indicated on an under hood label in most cases either on the radiator shroud or on the heater case on the firewall side of the engine compartment.

If the low side pressure is lower than normal and it has been determined that the correct amount of Freon is in the system a metering device could be problem or cause. On most General Motors vehicles they use an orifice tube metering device.

It is not uncommon for this to become restricted and cause low side readings to be below specifications. Other manufacturers will have different types of metering devices although the orifice tube has become the most common type of Freon metering component.

Also note that the orifice tube has a screen on it that can become clogged. If your orifice tube is clogged it is most likely from either moisture in the system or failure of internal components that have been chewed up and spit out by the compressor. If this screen is clogged with metal chips the system should be flushed thoroughly before recharging.

Automotive A/C diagnostic tests

A rundown of automotive AC diagnostics. The procedure will vary with your problem but here is an overview of how I would approach performance testing a system. I start by connecting the manifold gauge set to the respective high and low pressure fittings again you can find the location of service fittings in your service manual.

Close all the doors and windows and set up a fan in front of the radiator to simulate going down the road. Also to simulate road conditions it is recommended to raise the idle to about 1500 to 2000 RPMs. Now you can take accurate pressure readings on the high and low side and compare them to specifications.

You can also take an AC temperature output reading at the center duct with the blower on a medium speed or lower. With the pressure readings and the output temperature recorded this will give you a good baseline to start your diagnostics. Tree charts in your auto repair manual will guide you through the specific repair of problems indicated by your readings.

96 GMC K1500 4WD

A slipping automatic transmission is the first sign of serious internal troubles heading your way. More often then not this condition will lead to a complete transmission overhaul. Here is an email question about this common condition as well as a good example of the likely symptoms.

A visitor writes, Thank you for your website. You have pushed me to further educate myself about the mechanical side of cars. Here is some information about my trucks problem before I take it to a transmission shop or general car repair place.

I have a 96 GMC K1500 4WD. I am having slipping automatic transmission problems.  If I drive like grandma and ease up to Highway speeds I can feel all gears engage and pull, 1, 2, 3, and 4. If I take off fast From a stop or if I’m driving 6Omph and stomp it for passing gear I can see the Rpm gauge surge to 3500-4000 and hear the engine running great but no power at The wheels.

I have to let off the gas for the transmission to begin to pull again as it falls back to the higher gear. My auto scan tool from Actron says I have no codes set in the computer. I have purchased the all data online auto repair manuals for my trucks.  I have gone through the related info to become familiar as possible with this problem. After a physical inspection, my fluid level is correct and no burnt odor. I have no leaks, the wiring harnesses and connectors look fine.

Because I do not have a code, can I assume that my, vss, tcs and other related sensors have no failures or intermittent shorts? My truck has over 120,000 mi on it. From my research I’m thinking the problem is inside the slipping automatic transmission itself (clutches slipping etc.?)

I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me based on your 25yrs of experience in this area. I am a service tech in the industrial laundry machinery business. I have a mechanical/electrical background but not in the auto field. As they say, I know just about enough to get into trouble.

If you think the slipping transmission needs to be replaced, would you suggest any upgrades I should ask for during the rebuild? By the way, I’ll be letting the shop do the removal and reinstallation as well so any warnings in this area would be great.  Thank you for any help you can give.

Answer to slipping automatic transmissions

96 GMC 4x4

With the high miles on your 96 GMC K1500 4WD and the age of the unit it sure does seem that internal problems would be the most likely cause of your problems. Worn lip seals allowing fluid pressure to bypass the clutch apply pistons often create a slipping condition.

This can be confirmed with a line pressure check with a mechanical gauge connected to the test port. A stall speed test is where you power brake the vehicle (apply the gas and brake at the same time) and will verify the pressure bypassing condition.

In most cases the only way to solve this is with a complete transmission overhaul were you replace all internal seals and wear items like clutch disks and bands. Also sometimes when the trans has been slipping for a while new friction plates are required to be replaced do to scoring on the face of the hard metal discs. The only way to determine the amount of internal damage is with a tear down and inspection.

As far as removing the transmission, you mentioned your Chevy truck is a 4×4. A good thing to check when you get the truck back is the transfer case seal. The shop will have to separate the transfer case from the back of the transmission on your model. They make a gasket for this sealing area. Often shops will just use rtv silicone. This is not as long lasting as a fiber gasket and tends to leak sooner or later.

Find more auto repair information and all the latest post to the auto repair information blog.

B&M performance transmissions

Automatic transmission problems can be some of the most expensive repairs on today’s automobiles. In my 25 year career the entire automobile has advanced and gone through many changes.

The automatic transmission in my opinion has seen more changes than any other system on the automobile. Back in the 60s a two and three speed automatic transmission was all that you could get in any new car.

Today it is more common to have a six speed transmission or even a constant velocity transmission or CVT. What is amazing about modern units is that they use all of the advancements in automotive technology to improve operation.

Even though these advancements help improve drivability and efficiency they have not seemed to reduce automatic transmission problems. Internal malfunctions continue to be on the same level as they were in the previous years.

Automatic transmission history

Sidebar: In my day B&M was all the rage for those interested in high performance. They still offer shift kits and high performance automatic transmissions.

Automatic transmissions in the 80’s and 90’s relied on hydraulic controls to up shift the transmission. This upshift through the gears was controlled without a computer. The use of a governor and a throttle valve were the internal components that controlled the up shifting.

Although governors would fail and I would find in most cases it was either a seal or a stripped nylon gear this part was extremely reliable. Also the throttle valve was controlled by an adjustable steel cable. This provided direct input to the transmission on where the driver was as far throttle position, acceleration and engine load.

B&M Console Shifter

Wide open throttle would pull the cable tight and move the throttle valve into a position that would delay the up shift until the red line was reached.

Although these internal hydraulic controls and manual cables worked very well for upshift they were not very helpful in achieving maximum miles per gallon.

In the mid to late 80s when the computer was installed on board the vehicle they added a component known as a torque converter clutch.

This would lock up the transmission to a one-to-one ratio during the right conditions. In my opinion it was this advancement that has led to all of the electronics on today’s automatic transmissions.

Automatic transmission technology

Transmissions still use hydraulic pressure to perform up shift. Although this hydraulic pressure is controlled in most cases by shift solenoids that are electronically operated. The internal clutches and bands look very similar to the ones used years ago but again they are controlled by solenoids and electronics.

Some vehicles use a separate transmission control module to control the internal activities. These dedicated computers will monitor onboard sensors that are used by other systems on the vehicle.

4L60E Auto transmission

For example instead of using a throttle valve cable to determine throttle position why not use the TPS (throttle position sensor). Other sensors can help determine engine loads such as the map sensor which stands for manifold absolute pressure.

This sensor uses vacuum to accurately determine engine loads. The transmission control module will monitor many other sensors depending on the manufacturer and the specific transmission.

The TCM frequently reviews the input information and can make very fast adjustments to the shift schedule and current gear ratio applied to the vehicle’s drivetrain.

An advantage of this automotive technology is that the transmission can adapt and change the behavior in response to the operating conditions and the habits of the driver. This also allows on the fly adjustments to compensate for internal wear. The transmission control module can actually adjust the line pressure and boost it to compensate for these wearing components inside the transmission.

Transmission problems

As mentioned above many internal components look the same as they did in the 1960s. But the electronics used to control these internal components are cutting-edge. Now when it comes to automatic transmission problems the electronics side of the equation must be evaluated.

Fortunately the transmission control module will store trouble codes just as the main computer does for the emissions system. The set trouble codes can help diagnose both electronic and internal problems. For example if the vehicle sets a code for a second gear shift solenoid this will give you a clear path of diagnosis.

Some mechanics say that regular transmission maintenance and keeping the fluid clean is more important today because of all of these electronic controls. I do believe in following the recommended automatic transmission fluid maintenance schedule as recommended by the manufacturer. But keep in mind that in most cases if you are having a serious malfunction changing the fluid will not help the transmission problem.

Learn about car repair

This article about being a car mechanic is just my opinion after 25 years of working in the auto repair business. There are so many options and opportunities when you get into the field and each decision you make can have long-term effects.

Most mechanics will go through some form of education whether it is from local college programs or special manufacturer training or even learning car repair at a high school auto shop.

After the training is completed and you get your first job it can set you down a path that can last a lifetime. It is this first career decision after training that may be the most important. An example would be if your first position is at a franchise car repair shop.

You may find yourself working your way through the different brand stores and working in this type of facility until you retire. This may not be a bad thing and there is plenty of good money to be earned by working at a franchised facility.

Another example would be if you entered a Toyota sponsored training program. Chances are you would work at a Toyota dealership after graduation and may find yourself retiring from one after 30 years or so of working. Again this may not be a bad thing.

Being a car mechanic

My personal experience has not been much different. I entered a General Motors training program and worked at General Motors dealerships for most of my career. This solid work history and the high level of training that the dealerships provided, led me to what I consider the most solid job of my career.

Truck Mechanic

This is working for a government fleet agency that provides a fair wage and excellent benefits. This has been a good move for my family and provided job stability in a poor economy. But looking back this was not my favorite job.

And this is what has led me to write this article. In my opinion being a car mechanic can provide opportunities and flexibility.

A new mechanic entering the auto repair business should consider his first step down the career path an extremely important one. But he should also remember that opportunities will arise and the ability to change that path can exist.

Looking back on my career I had one job that was so much fun and I made so much money I wish that it never ended. As stated above I was trained by General Motors and worked at their dealerships for most of my career. At one point I deviated from this path.

My favorite car mechanic job

I got a job as a lead technician at an upscale used car lot. I considered this a temporary position but it turned out to be the best mechanic job and the most fun than I ever had. The used car lot business model that the owner deployed was pure genius.

He specialized in selling used premium automobiles like Infinities, Mercedes-Benz, BMWs, Jaguars, Lexus and Acura’s. These were the kind of automobiles that sold like hotcakes because everybody would like to be behind the wheel of such a car.

Nice used car

The owner of this business who was truly talented would go to car auctions and purchase these vehicles for pennies on the dollar. My department would recondition these (in some cases in poor condition) vehicles to be reliable. He would then detail the vehicle and put it out on a lot for sale at top dollar.

Most of these vehicles were high mileage but people could not resist them because they looked so good and ran so well. The owner of this used car lot would provide a 90 day warranty and up sell an aftermarket warranty for another large profit. This gave our service department a constant stream of work.

The owner provided an extremely fun environment and High line Demos for all of the mechanics. Yes we all got to drive top-of-the-line cars while working at the dealership. Fuel and car insurance was covered by the business. This was extremely smart because many sales developed from getting these vehicles in front of people’s eyes. Also securing the best mechanics in the area was an easy task.

For me I would go with the owner to the car auctions where he purchased these vehicles. I would evaluate them before the bidding began. This gave the owner an idea of how high he was willing to go as the car crossed the auction block. I and he developed a fantastic relationship and we had a lot of fun.

Unfortunately this owner had some serious personal troubles that affected the overall operations of the business. Eventually it was these personal problems that led to the closing of this used car dealership. I worked there for about 2 1/2 years and it was the best times of my life.

A job that when I woke up in the morning I was excited to go to. And it wasn’t just because he gave me a Mercedes Benz to drive to work in. Everybody that worked there was happy and this included the super model sales team and customers that bought cars there.

After the closing of the premium used car lot I was forced to return to the GM service departments, which is a good way to make a living but certainly not as much fun. When it comes to being a mechanic remember that you always have options. And exploring them may be some of the best times in your life.

Return to the homepage and see the latest posts on the auto repair information blog.

Automatic Transmission Fluid

This post is about checking and changing automatic transmission fluid. At the bottom ( Click the read more Link ) is my personal story about the 4L60E transmission in my Chevy Blazer.

First I wanted to make it clear that I am still undecided on whether changing the fluid in your automatic transmission is the right thing to do.

I have seen studies that support both sides of the question. I work for a large fleet company that tested several hundred vehicles and monitored the performance and failures of the automatic transmissions.

The private study conducted by the fleet showed that there were just as many failures in the vehicles that had regular transmission services as the ones that received no transmission services.

With that being said I generally recommend them. For myself I follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for transmission fluid and filter changes.

Just from experience in talking with customers it would seem that most drivers put this service on the back burner. Checking the transmission fluid before service begins is always a good idea.

Checking automatic transmission fluid

Make sure your vehicle is on a level surface. Not all transmissions will have a dipstick but most still do. If your transmission does have a dipstick make sure you wipe the dirt off around the cover of the dipstick handle before you pull it out of the tube. This is to prevent dirt from falling down the tube and into the transmission oil.

In most cases the manufacturer recommends that you check the transmission fluid when the vehicle is at operating temperature and idling in Park. Leaning over a running engine requires extra caution to keep yourself clear of moving parts.

Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean with a lint free preferably white cloth or paper towel. Reinsert the dipstick until it is fully seated and then remove it once again to check the readings. Note that if you find that the automatic transmission fluid is low that you should only add a half court at a time until you receive a full reading.

Also note that if the fluid is low that you should do a check for external fluid leaks from the transmission itself. If the transmission is dry and the fluid level continues to become low checking for leakage in the transmission cooler should also be done. In most vehicles the cooler is integrated into the radiator. If transmission fluid is leaking into the radiator it will turn the coolant pink and milky.

Automatic transmission fluid service

Automatic transmission filter

Transmission fluid and filter changes are part of your vehicle’s preventative maintenance program on most vehicles. It is important that you read your owner’s manual for the mileage that services are recommended.

If you’re going to stick to this preventive maintenance plan is a good idea not to let it go too far past the recommended mileage point. Also there is no reason to do the service early unless there is contamination in the fluid.

On most automatic transmission you must remove the transmission pan to drain the fluid. Using a trashcan lid with holes drilled in the center to catch the fluid will help reduce the mess.

Some manufacturers provide a transmission drain plug that makes the job much easier. In either case the transmission pan must be removed to access the filter.

Most transmission filters are made out of fabric or paper and attached to valve body by screws, clips or bolts. It is recommended that you do not clean the automatic transmission fluid filter but instead replace it. You also want to inspect the filter for signs of metal shavings and even broken internal components. This could be a sign that the transmission is having an internal problem.

You also want to inspect the inside bottom of the transmission pan for debris and friction material. Note that some deposits of friction material would be considered normal wear.  Also most transmission pans have a magnet at the bottom that should be cleaned and reinstalled in the pan. The magnet is supposed to pull material out of the fluid to reduce internal wear.

When reassembling the pan is recommended to either reuse the pan gasket from the factory if indicated by the service manuals or sometimes it’s printed on the gasket itself (reusable gasket). Sometimes the factory gasket is better than an aftermarket cork one supplied in the transmission service kit. I do not recommend that you apply silicone to the gasket as it may cause leakage.

When refilling the transmission make sure you check a quality auto repair manual for your vehicle’s fluid capacity. It is important not to overfill an automatic transmission. This can cause the fluid to foam and not properly lubricate the internal components.

My 4L60E transmission story

Chevrolet 4L60E Transmission

Some transmissions have inherent problems and will fail no matter how many transmission services are performed. In my 2004 Chevy Blazer I have the 4L60E transmission. An internal defect with the sun shell caused an alarming number of transmission failures in my model year ( Lucky Me !).

Changing the automatic transmission fluid will not have any effect on the strength of the sun shell. The problem with the 4L60E was addressed by turning down the line pressure when the vehicle is put in reverse. On my model year it is normal for there to be a slight delay engaging into reverse because of this temporary fix.

In the following model years a stronger sun shell was installed and the line pressure was adjusted back up. Just be aware that if you happen to have an automatic transmission with inherent problems, a transmission service will most likely not help your situation.

As I stated above I still believe in following your manufacturer’s guidelines for replacing the automatic transmission fluid for maintenance reasons. I also recommend using a factory service kit as the quality does seem much higher when you compare the gaskets and transmission filters.

Products for automatic transmission services

It is very important for me to pass these tests on the first attempt. It does not always turn out the way I want but I do give it my best shot.

The inconvenience of re-certifying every five years coupled with the financial expenses motivates me to make sure I am properly prepared for each test.

I do believe in purchasing ASE study guides along with other supporting information for each topic. I will even read through the service manuals provided by vehicle manufacturers for vehicle specific information.

Preparing for ASE tests

There are some excellent tips included in the ASE study guide that cover not only the amount and type of questions you’ll be asked but also best practices for being ready, both physically and emotionally for taking these difficult exams.

Here is one mistake that I made that will never happen to me again I forgot to bring my admission ticket to the test center.

Guess what, they will not let you take the test without the admission ticket.

Since I was 45 minutes away from the test center I had to apply for a refund and missed out on that testing session.

Not only do you need to bring your admission ticket and drivers license but I recommend you bring a couple of number two pencils because they may not be supplied at the test center.

Make sure you get a good nights sleep the night before you are to take the tests. I also recommend that you take the day off from work if at all possible.

It is difficult to turn wrenches all day and then rush yourself to the tests and then take the exams all night. If you do not take off from work you could be looking at a 14 to 16 hour day. This will for sure make you hate taking ASE tests.

My number one tip for taking ASE tests

When working with other technicians and helping them prepare for taking the ASE tests I find that many of them know the answer to the question yet they get it wrong.

Sometimes they talk themselves out of the right answer. My advice is to read through each question carefully and completely through the first time. Don’t stop reading and back up to reread a section, blast completely through it at least one time.

If you don’t know the answer to a question and need to think about it in depth your best bet is to move onto the next question and come back for this one later.

Whenever possible read through the question and pick your best answer and then move on. This will prevent you from talking yourself out of the right answer.

When you skip a test question make sure that you stay on track as far as filling in the ovals for the next question. The blank oval will also help you identify the questions you have to go back for.

If you are running out of time and still have unanswered questions take an educated guess at the answer. This is better than leaving it blank and for sure getting it wrong. And keep a look out for the except questions where you actually have to pick the wrong answer.

This coupled with the reluctance of today’s generation to strap themselves with a dirty job that requires massive amounts of hard work and education will continue to shrink the availability of people to repair cars.

The good news for those that are willing to accept the challenge is that they should have their pick of jobs almost anywhere in the country. This will also add a level of flexibility if relocation is required or desired.

A good example is I find myself in the state of Florida turning wrenches for local government. After spending most of my automotive career working in the state of New Jersey I never saw me moving to Florida.

I found the Florida job opening in a local New Jersey newspaper. The ad stated come to the sunny state of Florida and live, play, and work on the Gulf Coast. Relocation assistance is available for good mechanics.

I answered the ad and submitted my application. The local county paid for me to fly down for an interview and a drug test.

I went back to New Jersey and didn’t hear from them for three months. When they finally contacted me they stated that the job was mine if I wanted it. They would also pay to have my automotive tools shipped and assist with relocation expenses.

In my 25 year automotive career this was the single most important decision that I have ever made. I have absolutely no regrets about leaving my friends and family behind for this new position.

Good mechanics have choices

Even in a down economy there are many positions available for mechanics that are able to use diagnostic tools and are willing to relocate. Many of these positions are available in large cities and very desirable locations. The larger the population of a given area means the more availability of cars that will need to be fixed.

A certified mechanic with some experience is currently experiencing some of the lowest unemployment rates of any roll up your sleeves and get dirty field. Sure it’s not as affluent to be a mechanic as it is to be a doctor, lawyer or Indian chief. The pay is also nowhere near what it is for these positions.

With the average certified technician making between 40 and $70,000 a year, it is not a field that will make you rich. But the steadiness of the employment and being able to count on reliable income makes it a good choice for a growing family.

Good diagnostic skills makes the mechanic

The primary reason some technicians are unable to fix a particular problem is simply that they cannot find the cause of the malfunction. Today’s vehicles are complex which means that a great amount of knowledge and understanding is required to diagnose them.

Good mechanics will have good diagnostic skills. The technician who can identify and solve the car problem the first time the vehicle is brought in for service, will find that their reputation alone for problem solving lets them call the shots on where and when they want to be employed.

I myself complain a lot about the shortfalls of the auto repair industry. It is human nature to focus on the negatives and gloss over the positives. I am extremely guilty of this process. But as I looked around the room at my 25th high school reunion, I realized that I was not in such a bad position.

For the last 25 years I have been an excellent provider for me and my family. Although the car industry has had ups and downs, employment was still available for good mechanics as people decided to hold onto and repair old vehicles instead of buying new ones.

The same cannot be said for more than 50% of my high school graduating class. Many of these people had earned extremely large incomes but for short periods of time. It may be better to make $50,000 a year for 25 years then to have made 100,000 for just three or four years.

Becoming a good mechanic takes a lot of effort and may not be right for everybody. The job is backbreaking work and can be extremely frustrating. It can also provide a steady income. The individual will have to decide whether a career in the auto repair business is right for them.

This next link will take you back to the homepage. Here you can see the latest posts on the auto repair information blog.

ASE test results

Today I received my ASE test results. In a previous post I talked about taking ASE tests and we had a good discussion about the topic.

I thought that it would only be fair if I provided an update on how the actual tests turned out. I took a total of four recertification exams. I did pass all four that I took.

For me this means 4 down and 12 to go. As mentioned in the previous post my problem is not with ASE or taking the tests. My problem is the required recertification every five years.

This puts me firmly on a rotation that seems to never end. Some good comments were left on the taking ASE tests post.

Some of the more interesting ones pointed out that it is almost unheard of to have to recertify in any field every five years. In fact some medical certifications never require taking additional tests. Also noted are some technical certifications that require certification but on a seven or even 10 year requirement. So to me five years does seem excessive. The costs for the exams use to be reimbursed by my employer with a passing grade.

This is no longer the case. So now the frequency of the recertifications has become an issue to my wallet. This coupled with the recent reduction in pay can make it financially difficult to be a professional auto mechanic. And if you noticed I did not even mention the $40,000 I spent on tools over the last 25 years.

Open letter from ASE

With my ASE test results was a letter from the kind people at ASE. Since the included note stated that it was an open letter I thought I would share it with you.

From the ASE staff: If you passed one or more tests you should be proud. If you didn’t, you should be proud that you tried. Many of us here at ASE are also motor vehicle technicians, service consultants or parts specialists.

We worked in dealerships, independent repair shops, and we taught in tech schools. We have a great deal of respect for you, the professional who has accepted the challenge of the ASE tests. Some never even try.

recertified master tech

Whether or not you passed all the tests you should note these things. The questions are tough, and the passing standards are high. Some good professionals, even those with a good deal of knowledge and experience, might not pass.

All the test questions were written and carefully checked by panels of experts who are working in the field. We specifically avoid trick questions or questions when more than one right answers.

The questions are designed to have three believable wrong answers. That is, answers that may look correct, but are definitely wrong if you know an important piece of the information.

If you didn’t do as well on the test as you would like, visit our website and click on the button labeled prepare to test.

There you will find free information to help you locate training and prepare for the tests. Once again thanks for your efforts. We hope you continue to accept the challenge of ASE in the future, best wishes the staff of ASE.

Fuel Injectors

As automotive electronics continue to advance the car becomes increasingly complicated. As new technologies are uploaded they are unfortunately tested on the automotive consumer.

Problems with the systems are noted and upgraded on future models.

This is why a basic understanding of what types of electronic systems are installed on your vehicle is valuable knowledge.

An example of this situation would be when fuel injection hit the mainstream in the early 1980s.

Rough running engines and drivability concerns were often turned into small profit centers known as fuel injection cleaning services.

Later these early fuel injectors were often replaced and updated by more efficient units. This is why an understanding of electronics is a must for all automotive mechanics but is also helpful for automotive consumers.

Types of automotive electronics

Engine control module

Computers and electronic devices are used to control the engine and its support systems. Because of these controls today’s automobiles use less fuel and have higher performance.

These electronically controlled engines also have lower tailpipe emissions and are better for the environment then cars of the past.

Automotive electronics are also used in modern transmissions to activate shifting to again provide the right amount of power coupled with the maximum amount of fuel economy.

A little known fact is that about 75% of all function on modern-day vehicles is controlled by electronics. An example would be antilock braking systems.

These were once optional on vehicles of the early 90s. But now have become standard equipment. They have branched this system out to also control active suspension systems as well as traction control systems.

Some very cool technology is not very far down the road. Things like intelligent cruise control that uses infrared or radar technology will automatically knock the cruise off as you approach the vehicle in front of you.

Also an interesting development has been the use of headlights that are movable and now allow for your headlights to do a better job of illuminating the road ahead on twisting and turning roadways.

Why so much automotive technology

Automotive electronics

There are more than a handful of reasons for increasing the amount of electronics on today’s cars. First of all electricity moves at the speed of light. This means that systems can be monitored and their output controls operated very quickly.

Electronic components are also very light in weight reducing vehicle weight provides two advantages which would be increased performance at the same time as increasing fuel mileage.

Right now we are only limited by the creativity of the designers that work for the automotive manufacturers.

As these new systems are deployed the auto repair business must adapt and grow with the new technology.

Vehicle owners must also not only learn how to use these new systems but become educated on the possible costs involved with repairing them.

If you talk to an auto mechanic about these new technologies most will recommend that you wait until all of the bugs are worked out of them.

Ask questions when you purchase a car about the systems that are on board. Ask even more questions about how long these new technologies have been on the market and the reliability of them.

Avoiding high tech automotive technology that doesn’t have a proven track record or has not been out on the market long can save you a lot of headaches.

Basically what I’m saying is let someone else test and improve these automotive electronics before you get your hands on them. Also get some basic education on automotive electricity.

Rough Running Engine

Let us not forget that the engine runs rough condition can be caused by basic car problems. Many times professional and do it yourself auto mechanics start searching for answers in the vehicles high tech areas.

In many cases, the car problem is located in the most basic principles of engine operation.

Not all engine performance problems are directly related to on-board computers, throttle position sensors, fuel injectors or other fancy electronic systems.

This is the reason that all types of mechanics will still need to understand basic engine operation, as well as time tested engine testing procedures.

These basic tests are an important part of modern day engine troubleshooting and this will not change for some time. Well at least not until the electric vehicle is the only car on the roadways.

The engine runs rough

4 stroke internal combustion engines use compression of the air fuel mixture to maximize the power produced. The upward movement of the piston on the compression stroke will compress the air fuel mixture within the combustion chamber providing an easy to ignite mixture.

An engine with low compression will run rough, and will most likely have a noticeable lack of power.

Not to mention turning on the check engine light due to high engine emissions that will for sure fail the emission tests that are required in most states.

Compression Tester

A compression gauge is used to check the cylinders ability to seal against high pressures. This is an easy to use inexpensive tool that comes with instructions on how to use it.

Before conducting a compression test, it is recommended to disable the ignition and also the fuel system.

You should also find a good and reliable way to hold open the throttle plates.

Even better would be the wide open throttle position to allow the maximum amount of air to enter the cylinder during the compression test.

Why engines run rough?

In a perfect world each cylinder of an internal combustion engine will produce the same amount of vacuum. This is why when you are diagnosing the engine runs rough condition a quick vacuum test is recommended.

Vacuum Tester

When you perform this test the vacuum gauge readings should be steady and give a reading of about 20 inches of mercury.

You can check your auto repair manual for your exact specification which may vary slightly due to compression ratio of your specific engine.

If one cylinder sucks less than the others the needle of the vacuum gauge tester will fluctuate.

When vacuum tests are used on engines that are misfiring, the intensity of the fluctuation of the needle on the vacuum gauge indicates the severity of the mechanical engine problem.

Wild fluctuations may indicate a problem on multiple cylinders. Steady slow fluctuations usually mean a problem on one cylinder.

If the vacuum tester reads low all the time let’s say a reading of 10 inches and is steady as a rock, this could be a sign of a clogged exhaust system. A common car problem that would cause these types of readings is a catalytic convertor problem.

The honey comb catalyst can become damaged and break up and turn sideways severely restricting exhaust flow. If the engine does not breathe well on both inhale (intake) and exhale (exhaust) severe engine health problems may result.

When your engine runs rough it’s hard to enjoy the ride. But also your fuel consumption may increase at the same time your losing power. The exact opposite of what we all expect from our automobiles.

Find out more about the basics of engine operation and how this knowledge can help you diagnose car problems. As well as common tests used by professional mechanics. Discover the You Fix Cars website and my page about rough engine idle.

Or head on back to the main page and look through recent posts on the auto repair information blog.

Wheel Alignment Rack

This page is about front-end alignments and why it is so hard to get a good one. Even though this is not a do it yourself auto repair, it’s good to know what you’re up against to actually receive a quality wheel alignment.

Many DIY car mechanics (myself included) will replace the front-end parts that are required, and then take the vehicle in for the alignment.

This is a good plan, but you want to make sure the auto repair shop follows through by setting all adjustable angles.

On my short list of things to ask for when you pay for a wheel alignment is to get before and after printouts. All modern day alignment racks have vehicle specifications and printers built into the equipment.

The print out will have the specifications or the factory wheel alignment settings that the vehicle should have. Also on the print out will be the before readings for Castor, camber, and toe in settings. And last but not least, the final readings after all the adjustments are done and locked.

Even if you do not have experience with alignment settings, you should still ask for these before and after prints. When you begin to study the final settings you can compare them to the factory specifications to be assured they are within tolerances.

More often than not, when this request is made, you will find that the technician will go the extra mile to make sure his educated customer is satisfied with the alignment.

Signs of poor front end alignment

Front End Toe

Tire wear is one indication that your alignment may have become out of specifications. If you have feathered tire wear evenly on both front tires. This is an indication that the front toe settings are out of the factory specifications.

The same goes for the rear tires. Some vehicles have adjustable rear toe settings, and if these are out they can also cause feathered rear tire wear as well as dog tracking.

Another good way to check for dog tracking, which is an indication of the thrust angle alignment being out of specifications, is to have someone follow you down the road.

This is a good way to see if the vehicle is tracking straight. Dog tracking is highly visible from the vehicle that follows directly behind you.

If you’re camber is out of specification, the most common tire wear indication would be inside or outside tread wear. This is where either the inside rows of tread or outside rows are worn much further than the other. Note that if this condition is severe tire replacement may be required in order to correct the camber specifications.

Wheel alignment settings

The Castor alignment settings are not known for wearing tires. Where this setting is most important is the characteristics of the steering such as wondering and pulling.

My automotive instructor always used the example of shopping carts front wheels when talking about Castor. The Castor setting is also what is responsible for returning the front wheels to center automatically when coming out of a turn.

If you come out of a turn and the wheels have to be straightened manually. This setting will need to be adjusted. Also note that Castor can be affected by worn or loose strut rods or control arm bushings.

Camber Angles Image

It’s not easy to get a good quality front-end alignment. The low price of the service either requires the shop to up sell front end parts or receive extra labor for elongating strut holes to adjust camber or other types of modifications to make a profit. Although the focus should be to bring the vehicle within factory specifications.

When the customer declines the additional repairs, and only wants to pay for the alignment special, the technician will set the toe and let it go. Your steering wheel may be straight, but you will have to keep an eye on your tire wear for several months after the alignment service is completed.

Also note that it is recommended to rotate your tires every 6,000 miles. This is because the front steering tires will have a lot more wearing than the fixed position rear tires in most cases.

Keeping up on your tire rotation may reduce the frequency that you will have to replace those tires. In the same way that performing a proper chassis lubrication can save replacement of front end parts.

So don’t be afraid to ask for your alignment printout and learn about the three major wheel alignment settings, which include Castor, camber, and toe. I have a dedicated section about car suspension on my other site that can help you learn more about front-end parts and diagnosis. The shop will respect you for knowing your stuff and your chances for getting a high quality front-end alignment increases.