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	<title>Comments for Auto Repair Information Blog</title>
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	<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress</link>
	<description>Auto Repair Information and Facts From MasterTechMark</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 18:54:30 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Distributor Cap and Rotor Ignition by Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/08/11/distributor-cap-and-rotor-ignition/comment-page-1/#comment-116353</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 18:54:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=731#comment-116353</guid>
		<description>Eric: I really don&#039;t know the answer to your specific question. BUT I can tell you that the bulletin I did read was about the vent screen in the base plate of the distributor would get clogged and accelerate the moisture build up problem. I have not seen the replacement/ upgraded distributor but I bet it has larger venting ports to promote better airflow and reduce moisture collection.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eric: I really don&#8217;t know the answer to your specific question. BUT I can tell you that the bulletin I did read was about the vent screen in the base plate of the distributor would get clogged and accelerate the moisture build up problem. I have not seen the replacement/ upgraded distributor but I bet it has larger venting ports to promote better airflow and reduce moisture collection.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Distributor Cap and Rotor Ignition by Eric Simandl</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/08/11/distributor-cap-and-rotor-ignition/comment-page-1/#comment-116194</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric Simandl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jan 2012 19:55:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=731#comment-116194</guid>
		<description>Hi, I have a 2000 blazer with a 4.3 that has the moisture in the distibuter cap problem. What I was curious about was that I was told that the Replacement distributers have been redesigned for this truck. So, If I were to replace the distributer with a new delco, the problem would be solved. Is this true? Or am I resigned to replaceing the cap and rotor yearly. Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, I have a 2000 blazer with a 4.3 that has the moisture in the distibuter cap problem. What I was curious about was that I was told that the Replacement distributers have been redesigned for this truck. So, If I were to replace the distributer with a new delco, the problem would be solved. Is this true? Or am I resigned to replaceing the cap and rotor yearly. Thanks.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Free Auto Repair Manuals by Trail Blazer</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/04/06/free-auto-repair-manuals/comment-page-1/#comment-115484</link>
		<dc:creator>Trail Blazer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:50:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=591#comment-115484</guid>
		<description>I did some poking around as did you. I was unable to get factory or even Chilton style repair manuals for free, specifically for my trail blazer. Even the websites with free repair manuals in the domain name did not have them. Did find several places that had PDF owners manuals. Since I bought my truck used this was of some value. I was looking for spark plug maintenance intervals as recommended by the factory.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I did some poking around as did you. I was unable to get factory or even Chilton style repair manuals for free, specifically for my trail blazer. Even the websites with free repair manuals in the domain name did not have them. Did find several places that had PDF owners manuals. Since I bought my truck used this was of some value. I was looking for spark plug maintenance intervals as recommended by the factory.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Water 4 Gas Hho Expo by Fred</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2008/11/11/water-4-gas-hho-expo/comment-page-1/#comment-115471</link>
		<dc:creator>Fred</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 16:02:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=45#comment-115471</guid>
		<description>where can I buy the books on this and or a kit?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>where can I buy the books on this and or a kit?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Manual Transmission Diagnosis by NS</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-114897</link>
		<dc:creator>NS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jan 2012 16:15:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-114897</guid>
		<description>Makes a grindy whirring noise.  Sound coming from water pump area, but no leaks in that area. Car has 250K on it an all original parts, all under regular Toyota maintenance still, never missed one. Its a Yaris, 2007.  Cold days mainly, turn car on and noise is there, bad now, getting worse.  Last for several minutes, a few minutes past heat coming out of the inside heater fans, then 70 percent of it goes away. The last 30 percent goes completely away after 30 minutes or so of driving.    

This noise is there at idle and while driving, in or out of gear, and seems only dependent on rpm.  If while driving i put the clutch in it seems to go away but that&#039;s because I&#039;m also not giving it gas- give it gas while clutch is in and the noise is there.  It sounds a bit like the car going in reverse but louder so thinking maybe a bearing in transmission or in water pump but hoping water pump. Cant think of a 3rd option yet.  oh, all gears, shifting, etc, work fine- transmission has no problems in function. Still feels peppy, I can still squeal my tires if I rpm high then let off clutch…. Wife and cops hate it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Makes a grindy whirring noise.  Sound coming from water pump area, but no leaks in that area. Car has 250K on it an all original parts, all under regular Toyota maintenance still, never missed one. Its a Yaris, 2007.  Cold days mainly, turn car on and noise is there, bad now, getting worse.  Last for several minutes, a few minutes past heat coming out of the inside heater fans, then 70 percent of it goes away. The last 30 percent goes completely away after 30 minutes or so of driving.    </p>
<p>This noise is there at idle and while driving, in or out of gear, and seems only dependent on rpm.  If while driving i put the clutch in it seems to go away but that&#8217;s because I&#8217;m also not giving it gas- give it gas while clutch is in and the noise is there.  It sounds a bit like the car going in reverse but louder so thinking maybe a bearing in transmission or in water pump but hoping water pump. Cant think of a 3rd option yet.  oh, all gears, shifting, etc, work fine- transmission has no problems in function. Still feels peppy, I can still squeal my tires if I rpm high then let off clutch…. Wife and cops hate it.</p>
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		<title>Comment on About by Josh Besso</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/about/comment-page-1/#comment-114655</link>
		<dc:creator>Josh Besso</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 05:40:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-114655</guid>
		<description>Mark,
I just wanted to take a moment and praise your efforts. I feel you are truly one of the very few people out there that truly know what they are doing. I enjoyed reading your posts and by other comments I can tell it is very common to hear what an outstanding job you do. Thank for keeping me in touch with the automotive world..</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mark,<br />
I just wanted to take a moment and praise your efforts. I feel you are truly one of the very few people out there that truly know what they are doing. I enjoyed reading your posts and by other comments I can tell it is very common to hear what an outstanding job you do. Thank for keeping me in touch with the automotive world..</p>
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		<title>Comment on Windshield Wiper Problems by Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/12/01/windshield-wiper-problems/comment-page-1/#comment-114148</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2012 18:13:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=842#comment-114148</guid>
		<description>John: If it did not do it with the old blades I would put them back on. Otherwise a problem like you described can often mean replacing parts like the wiper transmission, arms or linkage. It would need to be inspected to know for sure.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>John: If it did not do it with the old blades I would put them back on. Otherwise a problem like you described can often mean replacing parts like the wiper transmission, arms or linkage. It would need to be inspected to know for sure.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Windshield Wiper Problems by John Sobierski</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/12/01/windshield-wiper-problems/comment-page-1/#comment-114011</link>
		<dc:creator>John Sobierski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:36:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=842#comment-114011</guid>
		<description>2001 GranM Merc..Just changed blades..now notice the passenger side blade starts to return a fraction  at the  end of the sweep..causing an annoying click. What can I do??</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2001 GranM Merc..Just changed blades..now notice the passenger side blade starts to return a fraction  at the  end of the sweep..causing an annoying click. What can I do??</p>
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		<title>Comment on Car AC Not Blowing Cold Enough by Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/05/31/car-ac-not-blowing-cold-enough/comment-page-1/#comment-113596</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Jan 2012 17:33:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=658#comment-113596</guid>
		<description>Dar Dsa: Very slow Freon leaks are the hardest ac repair to resolve. A 2003 Honda Civic does not hold much freon to begin with. If it takes 2 years to leak out this is a very very slow and hard to detect leak. I would give the shop that installed the dye another shot. If they did install the dye correctly there may be a chance they can detect the location at this time. It boils down to equipment and techniques used to locate the leak by the shop. Finding someone with the skills, equipment and patience to bear down and fix your problem will be challenging.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dar Dsa: Very slow Freon leaks are the hardest ac repair to resolve. A 2003 Honda Civic does not hold much freon to begin with. If it takes 2 years to leak out this is a very very slow and hard to detect leak. I would give the shop that installed the dye another shot. If they did install the dye correctly there may be a chance they can detect the location at this time. It boils down to equipment and techniques used to locate the leak by the shop. Finding someone with the skills, equipment and patience to bear down and fix your problem will be challenging.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Car AC Not Blowing Cold Enough by dar dsa</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/05/31/car-ac-not-blowing-cold-enough/comment-page-1/#comment-113587</link>
		<dc:creator>dar dsa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Jan 2012 16:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=658#comment-113587</guid>
		<description>Hi Mark - appreciate your time and advise.  My Honda Civic 2003 LX AC has every 2 years stopped putting out cold air.  While it was under warranty the dealer replaced the O-ring and the AC blew cold air.  2 summer later (when the warranty had lapsed 6 months) it was again not blowing cold air.  Honda agreed to pay for parts $60 if i paid for labour $200. This time they replaced a valve.  2 years later again it was not blowing cold air.  this time i took it to an independent shop.  they told me they could detect no leak with dye and UV, recharged the system and sent me on my way (and a $300 bill).  the system blew cold air that summer and the next but again this past summer it was no longer blowing cold air.  I dont want to spend another $300 to be no better off than before.  Any advise on what the problem might be or am i better off just re-charging the system every 2 years?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mark &#8211; appreciate your time and advise.  My Honda Civic 2003 LX AC has every 2 years stopped putting out cold air.  While it was under warranty the dealer replaced the O-ring and the AC blew cold air.  2 summer later (when the warranty had lapsed 6 months) it was again not blowing cold air.  Honda agreed to pay for parts $60 if i paid for labour $200. This time they replaced a valve.  2 years later again it was not blowing cold air.  this time i took it to an independent shop.  they told me they could detect no leak with dye and UV, recharged the system and sent me on my way (and a $300 bill).  the system blew cold air that summer and the next but again this past summer it was no longer blowing cold air.  I dont want to spend another $300 to be no better off than before.  Any advise on what the problem might be or am i better off just re-charging the system every 2 years?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Check for Ford Recalls by Craig</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2012/01/02/check-for-ford-recalls/comment-page-1/#comment-113042</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 04:18:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=1181#comment-113042</guid>
		<description>This is great information! Thanks for sharing.  Most often I fix my own car so I don&#039;t take it in to the dealership very often. This is an easy way to check for recalls and make sure that my vehicle is running safe.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is great information! Thanks for sharing.  Most often I fix my own car so I don&#8217;t take it in to the dealership very often. This is an easy way to check for recalls and make sure that my vehicle is running safe.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Increased Sparkplug Maintenance Intervals by Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2011/12/14/sparkplug-maintenance-intervals/comment-page-1/#comment-112558</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:08:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=1172#comment-112558</guid>
		<description>Alex : It depends on the year make and model and engine size. But most engines with old style plugs can be upgraded with the newer generation of spark plugs. Ask your parts counter person for the cross over part number. Then do a little research before shelling out the extra cash to make sure others are happy with the conversion choice.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Alex : It depends on the year make and model and engine size. But most engines with old style plugs can be upgraded with the newer generation of spark plugs. Ask your parts counter person for the cross over part number. Then do a little research before shelling out the extra cash to make sure others are happy with the conversion choice.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Increased Sparkplug Maintenance Intervals by Alex</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2011/12/14/sparkplug-maintenance-intervals/comment-page-1/#comment-112485</link>
		<dc:creator>Alex</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Jan 2012 08:05:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=1172#comment-112485</guid>
		<description>I didn&#039;t know that there are so many kinds of spark plugs and iridium spark plugs can last up to 10 years. Great information. All the while, I thought that spark plug is a regular thing to replace. For old vehicles that are using copper nickel spark plugs, do you think the platinum spark plugs are compatible?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I didn&#8217;t know that there are so many kinds of spark plugs and iridium spark plugs can last up to 10 years. Great information. All the while, I thought that spark plug is a regular thing to replace. For old vehicles that are using copper nickel spark plugs, do you think the platinum spark plugs are compatible?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Unfair Shop Supply and Waste Disposal Charges by Rebecca</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2011/05/03/shop-supply-and-waste-disposal/comment-page-1/#comment-111874</link>
		<dc:creator>Rebecca</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Jan 2012 18:40:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=964#comment-111874</guid>
		<description>Teresa: I completely agree.  

My husband and I opened our automotive shop over a year ago and previously did not charge shop supplies.  My husband had previously worked for a long time as a service manager at a dealership and was very jaded afterwards and wanted to do everything possible to not &quot;rip people off&quot; as he had seen happen at the dealership so many times.  However, after a year in business we found out the hard way that this was costing us in a big way.  We pay for waste disposal, towels, welding wire, grinding discs, chemicals and cleaners, etc. and consider them only a &quot;business expense&quot; instead of including them on our invoices for customers.  We tried tracking the cost of some cleaners and fluids (but nothing else) on each individual invoice and found it to be, like you said, impossible.  

Too much goes on in the purchase and use of supplies to track this.  This year, I have convinced him to follow suit with most other shops and charge the fee--we have decided to cap it at 15 as a concession to his not wanting to do anyone wrong.  Sure, some shops charge way too much and do indeed make a profit, but the reality is, most do not and it is absolutely a necessary expense and one which cannot logistically be tailored to each individual job.  Some come in over true cost, some under, but it all averages out.  I have researched our local market to decide upon including this charge and I am certain it is the best decision business-wise, and if our customers trust us and want us to remain in business so that we can serve them, it must be done.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Teresa: I completely agree.  </p>
<p>My husband and I opened our automotive shop over a year ago and previously did not charge shop supplies.  My husband had previously worked for a long time as a service manager at a dealership and was very jaded afterwards and wanted to do everything possible to not &#8220;rip people off&#8221; as he had seen happen at the dealership so many times.  However, after a year in business we found out the hard way that this was costing us in a big way.  We pay for waste disposal, towels, welding wire, grinding discs, chemicals and cleaners, etc. and consider them only a &#8220;business expense&#8221; instead of including them on our invoices for customers.  We tried tracking the cost of some cleaners and fluids (but nothing else) on each individual invoice and found it to be, like you said, impossible.  </p>
<p>Too much goes on in the purchase and use of supplies to track this.  This year, I have convinced him to follow suit with most other shops and charge the fee&#8211;we have decided to cap it at 15 as a concession to his not wanting to do anyone wrong.  Sure, some shops charge way too much and do indeed make a profit, but the reality is, most do not and it is absolutely a necessary expense and one which cannot logistically be tailored to each individual job.  Some come in over true cost, some under, but it all averages out.  I have researched our local market to decide upon including this charge and I am certain it is the best decision business-wise, and if our customers trust us and want us to remain in business so that we can serve them, it must be done.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Chevrolet Oil Leaks by Charles O. Slavens</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/15/chevrolet-oil-leaks/comment-page-1/#comment-111406</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles O. Slavens</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jan 2012 11:02:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=117#comment-111406</guid>
		<description>I have a 2004 GMC van with 115,000 miles. Yesterday, while driving, I smelled something hot and when I looked at my gauges the oil pressure gauge was peaked at 80. I pulled over, pulled out the dip stick and it was hot and dry. I looked under the vehicle and didn&#039;t see anything significant; ditto the engine compartment. Can you please tell me what could have happened? Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 2004 GMC van with 115,000 miles. Yesterday, while driving, I smelled something hot and when I looked at my gauges the oil pressure gauge was peaked at 80. I pulled over, pulled out the dip stick and it was hot and dry. I looked under the vehicle and didn&#8217;t see anything significant; ditto the engine compartment. Can you please tell me what could have happened? Thanks</p>
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