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	<title>Comments on: Auto Repair Guide</title>
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	<description>Auto Repair Information and Facts From MasterTechMark</description>
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		<title>By: Angie</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-105880</link>
		<dc:creator>Angie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Dec 2011 02:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>My right turn signal blinks faster  (about 1 in 3 times) and acts like it is out, but all of the lightbulbs are fine and working.  Could this be in the wiring?  What would I need to look up to research this more?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My right turn signal blinks faster  (about 1 in 3 times) and acts like it is out, but all of the lightbulbs are fine and working.  Could this be in the wiring?  What would I need to look up to research this more?</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-59564</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 May 2011 15:57:21 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Kathy: It could be a few things and might need professional diagnosis BUT, two common problems on that model would be the Park switch which is inside the wiper motor assembly and is not usually serviced separately ( just replace the motor) or the off switch that is part of the combination lever.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathy: It could be a few things and might need professional diagnosis BUT, two common problems on that model would be the Park switch which is inside the wiper motor assembly and is not usually serviced separately ( just replace the motor) or the off switch that is part of the combination lever.</p>
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		<title>By: Kathy</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-59520</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 May 2011 07:01:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-59520</guid>
		<description>My daughter has a 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier. The windshield wipers will not stop after you turn them on. The delay works fine but when you put them on regular wipe they won&#039;t turn off unless you turn the car off. Where should I check for this problem?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My daughter has a 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier. The windshield wipers will not stop after you turn them on. The delay works fine but when you put them on regular wipe they won&#8217;t turn off unless you turn the car off. Where should I check for this problem?</p>
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		<title>By: James Van Reenen</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-55358</link>
		<dc:creator>James Van Reenen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Mar 2011 13:54:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-55358</guid>
		<description>We have replaced the button pad because when we checked out the wiring there was power on both ends of each wire.  My dad suggested we replace the button pad because there was power to the entire system but thought maybe the sensor was bad.  We replaced that and the power lock worked (it worked on the old pad also) but the windows still wont work.  Also within 24 hrs of replacment,  the power lock wont work and now my interior lights don&#039;t work either. We have checked all the fuses and none are bad but there are still the problems mentioned.  My dad suggested we just take it to a dealer but I am wanting to see if it&#039;s something that has happened on more than just my vehicle.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have replaced the button pad because when we checked out the wiring there was power on both ends of each wire.  My dad suggested we replace the button pad because there was power to the entire system but thought maybe the sensor was bad.  We replaced that and the power lock worked (it worked on the old pad also) but the windows still wont work.  Also within 24 hrs of replacment,  the power lock wont work and now my interior lights don&#8217;t work either. We have checked all the fuses and none are bad but there are still the problems mentioned.  My dad suggested we just take it to a dealer but I am wanting to see if it&#8217;s something that has happened on more than just my vehicle.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-55246</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:45:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-55246</guid>
		<description>James: Just as important as power you need to have a good ground. So I would check the system grounds next.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>James: Just as important as power you need to have a good ground. So I would check the system grounds next.</p>
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		<title>By: James Van Reenen</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-55231</link>
		<dc:creator>James Van Reenen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:40:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-55231</guid>
		<description>I have a 1997 GMC Suburban and the power windows won&#039;t work. My dad used is power test light and tested for power. It showed power everywhere. What should I check now?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 1997 GMC Suburban and the power windows won&#8217;t work. My dad used is power test light and tested for power. It showed power everywhere. What should I check now?</p>
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		<title>By: Tommy P</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-53265</link>
		<dc:creator>Tommy P</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 16:12:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-53265</guid>
		<description>As part of an inspection process, the Dealer replaced and EGR valve in my 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 72K miles. My electronic info center indicated that my gas mileage went from 20 mpg to 10 mpg. So I decided to check it the &quot;old fashion way&quot;. I filled it with fuel, drove and then did the math calculation. This confirmed I am getting only 10 mpg. I am continuing to do this as we speak. Have you ever heard of this and if so, what is the solution? I&#039;ve already contacted the Dealer, Chrysler Corp and conducted research and, so far, don&#039;t have an answer. And as a side note, my wife&#039;s Dodge Journey is doing the same thing. Any solutions??</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As part of an inspection process, the Dealer replaced and EGR valve in my 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 72K miles. My electronic info center indicated that my gas mileage went from 20 mpg to 10 mpg. So I decided to check it the &#8220;old fashion way&#8221;. I filled it with fuel, drove and then did the math calculation. This confirmed I am getting only 10 mpg. I am continuing to do this as we speak. Have you ever heard of this and if so, what is the solution? I&#8217;ve already contacted the Dealer, Chrysler Corp and conducted research and, so far, don&#8217;t have an answer. And as a side note, my wife&#8217;s Dodge Journey is doing the same thing. Any solutions??</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-43566</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Nov 2010 17:48:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-43566</guid>
		<description>Drew: New belts do not need to be stretched before installation. When ever I have run into your situation it was due to the wrong part. I usually confirm the wrong parts by measuring the old belt against the new one. Belts do not stretch much like they did in the old days. You might want to try a different brand new belt?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Drew: New belts do not need to be stretched before installation. When ever I have run into your situation it was due to the wrong part. I usually confirm the wrong parts by measuring the old belt against the new one. Belts do not stretch much like they did in the old days. You might want to try a different brand new belt?</p>
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		<title>By: Drew</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-43553</link>
		<dc:creator>Drew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Nov 2010 15:46:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-43553</guid>
		<description>When I went to get my oil changed on my &#039;97 cavalier the guy told me I needed a new serpentine belt. So I went out and bought one and now can&#039;t get the new one on. I&#039;ve checked and made sure I have the right belt. I&#039;m pulling the tensioner all the way down and still don&#039;t have enough slack to slip the belt over all the pulleys. I managed to get my old one back on and the car runs fine so I don&#039;t think I have the wrong position of the belt. Do I need to stretch out the belt in any way or is there something else I can do to make this new belt slip on?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When I went to get my oil changed on my &#8217;97 cavalier the guy told me I needed a new serpentine belt. So I went out and bought one and now can&#8217;t get the new one on. I&#8217;ve checked and made sure I have the right belt. I&#8217;m pulling the tensioner all the way down and still don&#8217;t have enough slack to slip the belt over all the pulleys. I managed to get my old one back on and the car runs fine so I don&#8217;t think I have the wrong position of the belt. Do I need to stretch out the belt in any way or is there something else I can do to make this new belt slip on?</p>
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		<title>By: Charlie</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-37944</link>
		<dc:creator>Charlie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:32:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-37944</guid>
		<description>I have a 98 Intrepid with a 2.7.  My sister was told that the motor needed to be replaced; the shop that she took it to had removed the intake and the valve covers.  Turns out that she just ran the car out of oil causing the timing chain cover to fail and put the car out of timing.  I have reset the tensionser (I hope that it will work), changed out the gaskets on the timng chain cover, the intake, and the valve cover gaskets.  I have also replaced the spark plugs.  I bought some cheap motor oil to run the motor for a few minutes then drain and change oil and filter.  I also bought some fuel additive to clean up old fuel/water.  However, the tank still has half a tank of old fuel, I can not fing anywhere to drain...any suggestions?  Also I bought a fuel filter, but the books I have say nothing about the location of the filter...is it in the fuel cell?  Have I missed anything on what I am doing?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 98 Intrepid with a 2.7.  My sister was told that the motor needed to be replaced; the shop that she took it to had removed the intake and the valve covers.  Turns out that she just ran the car out of oil causing the timing chain cover to fail and put the car out of timing.  I have reset the tensionser (I hope that it will work), changed out the gaskets on the timng chain cover, the intake, and the valve cover gaskets.  I have also replaced the spark plugs.  I bought some cheap motor oil to run the motor for a few minutes then drain and change oil and filter.  I also bought some fuel additive to clean up old fuel/water.  However, the tank still has half a tank of old fuel, I can not fing anywhere to drain&#8230;any suggestions?  Also I bought a fuel filter, but the books I have say nothing about the location of the filter&#8230;is it in the fuel cell?  Have I missed anything on what I am doing?</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-32147</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:00:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-32147</guid>
		<description>Ultra: I appreciate you taking the time to read the book and commenting about it. For the record it is just my opinion. You also have to remember that I am a mechanic and not a writer. In fact the book was written in 2006 and I give it away for free because it is far from perfect! I would like to rewrite it someday but right now I am to busy wrenching.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ultra: I appreciate you taking the time to read the book and commenting about it. For the record it is just my opinion. You also have to remember that I am a mechanic and not a writer. In fact the book was written in 2006 and I give it away for free because it is far from perfect! I would like to rewrite it someday but right now I am to busy wrenching.</p>
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		<title>By: ultra</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-32095</link>
		<dc:creator>ultra</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 03:39:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-32095</guid>
		<description>I cannot wholeheartedly agree with all of the conclusions in your e book. I am a diligent and honest mechanic.  Not perfect but when I make an error, like you, I correct it.

Ford white collar guys nixed the engineers recommendations on transmission service on mid-1990&#039;s F150s.  This resulted in torque converter lockup shudder.  A conversation was had directly with the Ford engineers to obtain this data.  The white collar guys knew better than the engineers and recommended do trans service at any interval.  They were wrong.  Manufacturers do not always have correct recommendations.

I know a lot of good honest mechanics.  I know a few stooges as well.  Shops that I have worked for for any prolonged period have been honest and reputable.  At one shop run by a 35 year veteran with me as his only tech, we virtually never replaced any major components.  I attribute this to the good work we did, following manufacturer recommendations on viscosity, diligently selling them valid work which I noticed needed to be done and really staying in communication with them regarding what they were experiencing with their vehicles.

On occasion we had owner diagnoses which we would talk them out of.  We would only repair what we could observe, diagnose and honestly would have done for our own vehicles. Of course, I did work for 2 small shops that were less than honest sometimes.  I left them. Your book is essentially doing a good thing but some revisions are due.  I would love to work with you on it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I cannot wholeheartedly agree with all of the conclusions in your e book. I am a diligent and honest mechanic.  Not perfect but when I make an error, like you, I correct it.</p>
<p>Ford white collar guys nixed the engineers recommendations on transmission service on mid-1990&#8242;s F150s.  This resulted in torque converter lockup shudder.  A conversation was had directly with the Ford engineers to obtain this data.  The white collar guys knew better than the engineers and recommended do trans service at any interval.  They were wrong.  Manufacturers do not always have correct recommendations.</p>
<p>I know a lot of good honest mechanics.  I know a few stooges as well.  Shops that I have worked for for any prolonged period have been honest and reputable.  At one shop run by a 35 year veteran with me as his only tech, we virtually never replaced any major components.  I attribute this to the good work we did, following manufacturer recommendations on viscosity, diligently selling them valid work which I noticed needed to be done and really staying in communication with them regarding what they were experiencing with their vehicles.</p>
<p>On occasion we had owner diagnoses which we would talk them out of.  We would only repair what we could observe, diagnose and honestly would have done for our own vehicles. Of course, I did work for 2 small shops that were less than honest sometimes.  I left them. Your book is essentially doing a good thing but some revisions are due.  I would love to work with you on it.</p>
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		<title>By: Gerry</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-29723</link>
		<dc:creator>Gerry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jun 2010 22:40:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-29723</guid>
		<description>Thank you Mark for your input. The auto parts store is not willing to warranty the compressor or dryer as the original orifice tube was trapped in the line by a mechanics wrench denting the line while removing.   PARTS COST $287.00 PLUS $250.00 LABOR AT FIRST SHOP. Second repair shop quoted $359.00 plus tax to replace the compressor, dryer, orifice, this is the shop that removed the water pump etc mentioned above. 

The second repair shop said that the parts supplier was at their garage when the line was removed seeing the old orifice tube and claimed that the condenser needed to be replace also or there would be no warranty on the new parts, which turns out not to be true, as they only require the dryer and orifice tube replaced. The labor cost increased to $609.00 plus tax from the original $359.00  and the new parts $475.00. The parts store hearing this story suggested that I pay the second shop for the work to date and they would have a car hauler pick up the car and take it to a reputable shop. 

I paid the second shop $136.00 for the labor and collected the parts remove. The third shop called the say that the cost to replace the compressor, dryer and orifice tube $406.00 plus tax even though they don,t have to remove the compressor or water pump. To date I have $673.00 in parts, labor repair and plan to have the car hauled from the third shop to home and fix it myself. By to time that this is over and hopefully my car repaired I will have over $1,000.00 invested, what a nightmare.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you Mark for your input. The auto parts store is not willing to warranty the compressor or dryer as the original orifice tube was trapped in the line by a mechanics wrench denting the line while removing.   PARTS COST $287.00 PLUS $250.00 LABOR AT FIRST SHOP. Second repair shop quoted $359.00 plus tax to replace the compressor, dryer, orifice, this is the shop that removed the water pump etc mentioned above. </p>
<p>The second repair shop said that the parts supplier was at their garage when the line was removed seeing the old orifice tube and claimed that the condenser needed to be replace also or there would be no warranty on the new parts, which turns out not to be true, as they only require the dryer and orifice tube replaced. The labor cost increased to $609.00 plus tax from the original $359.00  and the new parts $475.00. The parts store hearing this story suggested that I pay the second shop for the work to date and they would have a car hauler pick up the car and take it to a reputable shop. </p>
<p>I paid the second shop $136.00 for the labor and collected the parts remove. The third shop called the say that the cost to replace the compressor, dryer and orifice tube $406.00 plus tax even though they don,t have to remove the compressor or water pump. To date I have $673.00 in parts, labor repair and plan to have the car hauled from the third shop to home and fix it myself. By to time that this is over and hopefully my car repaired I will have over $1,000.00 invested, what a nightmare.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-29650</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 16:50:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-29650</guid>
		<description>Gerry: Not sure if it is necessary to remove the water pump on your model but it does sound strange. When your original compressor failed it was very important to replace the orifice. It is standard procedure to also use a liquid flushing agent to flush any metal partials out of the system before installing the new orifice tube and related parts.

I put together a page about how to properly replace an ac compressor. It outlines 10 steps that should be performed when replacing this expensive part. If your 2 shops have not performed these steps your problems may continue. Here is a link to my compressor article. http://www.youfixcars.com/car-ac-compressor.html</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gerry: Not sure if it is necessary to remove the water pump on your model but it does sound strange. When your original compressor failed it was very important to replace the orifice. It is standard procedure to also use a liquid flushing agent to flush any metal partials out of the system before installing the new orifice tube and related parts.</p>
<p>I put together a page about how to properly replace an ac compressor. It outlines 10 steps that should be performed when replacing this expensive part. If your 2 shops have not performed these steps your problems may continue. Here is a link to my compressor article. <a href="http://www.youfixcars.com/car-ac-compressor.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.youfixcars.com/car-ac-compressor.html</a></p>
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		<title>By: Gerry</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/free-auto-repair-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-29632</link>
		<dc:creator>Gerry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 12:23:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?page_id=114#comment-29632</guid>
		<description>I have a 2000 chev corvette with air conditioning problem. Purchase compressor, dryer and orfice tube, paid  to have installed and it failed within 50 miles. Went to a second repair shop but question their knowledge as they have removed the water pumb and front of air intake. Found old orfice had not been replace, would this cause the new compressor to fail and should they have taken off the water pump, air intake.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 2000 chev corvette with air conditioning problem. Purchase compressor, dryer and orfice tube, paid  to have installed and it failed within 50 miles. Went to a second repair shop but question their knowledge as they have removed the water pumb and front of air intake. Found old orfice had not been replace, would this cause the new compressor to fail and should they have taken off the water pump, air intake.</p>
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