Power Window Motor
Power window problems on cars and trucks could be considered one of the most annoying problems you could have on an automobile. When you think about it how often do you actually operate the power windows on your car.
When you roll up to the drive-through window at your favorite fast food restaurant or you are going to pay a toll I’m sure you would like your window to operate properly. Many times electric window operation can become intermittent. This is even more frustrating than if it stopped working altogether.
When you have intermittent operation the tendency is to put off repair of the system until either the problem gets worse or the Windows stops working all the time. From a safety point of view you really shouldn’t put off repairs because you never know when rolling up or down that window will be important for safety reasons.
Power window systems
Power Window Parts
The power window system happens to be one accessory that really doesn’t vary that much between vehicle manufacturers or car models. The major components of an average system would be the master switch, the window lift motor, circuit breakers and relays, and the wiring that ties those items together. Oh I forgot the glass itself.
Often when the window stops working people ask me where the fuse is. Most modern power window systems do not actually have a fuse. It is more common to find a circuit breaker protecting the wiring and electrical components. A circuit breaker will automatically reset if the system overheats or pulls too much amperage.
In addition to the main circuit breaker usually there is an internal circuit breaker to protect each individual window lift motor. If one of the window switches is held too long or the window is obstructed the circuit breaker will automatically open to prevent damage to the motor.
Common problems with power windows
Master Switch
I diagnose a lot of these power window systems. The two most common problems that I find is either a defective window lift motor or a problem with the master switch. To break it down even further it is the driver side window motor that I see fail most often.
The simple fact is that the drivers side front door window is operated much more than any of the other Windows on most vehicles. This is also true with the master switch that is usually mounted on the drivers side door panel. The master switch gets more use than the other switches in the vehicle.
On my own personal vehicle the master switch is mounted flat on the driver side armrest on the door panel. I have had problems with the master switch because of its location. Water from the roof drips right onto the switch when the window is down or even partially opens. This poor design led to heavy corrosion built-up inside the switch.
I was able to save myself from replacing the switch by removing and disassembling it. I got myself some electrical contact cleaner and was able to remove all of the corrosion. I have to perform this procedure about once every two years because of this master switches poor location.
Diagnosing electric windows
Just because the driver side master switch and the driver side window lift motor are the most common failures this doesn’t mean that you will have those exact problems. Many other parts of the system are capable of failing.
When you’re starting your diagnosis of a power window system it is best to determine if the whole system is not working or maybe it’s just one window from one switch. If nothing works in the system the place to start would be with the master control switch or the main system circuit breaker.
If only some of the Windows don’t work and others do you would want to check parts that are common to the windows that are not working. From an electrical point of view you may need a wiring diagram for your specific automobile to determine what electrical parts are in common.
As an example let’s say that the right rear window is the only window not working. It does not work from the master switch or the switch on the right rear door panel. In this case it would be time to remove the door panel and inspect the power window motor that runs that window. Again an online auto repair manual will provide step-by-step diagnostic instructions to determine what the failure is.
Trey: Don’t think I can help much with this problem. If the breaker overheats and the windows are inoperative from the master switch this Could indicate a short between the breaker and the master switch. Accessing the wiring diagram from all-data DIY can provide wire and connector locations but if you are not comfortable with tracing wires and diagnosing complex electrical problems you might be best served to pay a couple of hours of labor for professional diagnosis.
I have a ’97 Yukon; shortly after the car has power the circuit breaker for the windows overheats. None of the windows work from any switch. When the C/B is plugged in the fuse box and you move it, it makes a popping sound and has a small arc. Ive already replaced the master switch and the C/B. Is there a possible short or another faulty component? I always rather do it myself than pay someone to do it, but electrical work is not a good area with me. Can you help?
Reggie: If the sunroof switch is located in the Master switch then yes it could be caused by the master switch. But other things like fuses, relay’s, wiring problems and burned fuse-able links can also cause this. Hard to find manuals can usually be ordered from Amazon or other internet retailers. I would either hold out for a diagnostic chart to follow or take it to a dealer for initial diagnosis as opposed to throwing expensive new parts at the problem.
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Diamante and all of the windows stopped working along with the power sunroof. I cannot find a Haynes repair manual in any of the parts stores in my city. Could this be caused by a faulty master switch?
Mark,
I just stopped by a local shop that specializes in used parts. They let me try a rebuilt master switch that they had fully tested. I installed it and still had the same issue. So at this point I am ruling out the master switch as the problem.
Is it possible that there is a single broken wire somewhere? Like I said, I looked at the fuses, and swapped out the relay for another, and that all seems to be fine….unless I missed something. I will re-check the fuses and relay, but I have zero experience testing electrical connections, so if not a relay or fuse I will probably have to hire someone to track the problem down. Any recommendations as to who to take it to in the St. Petersburg Florida area?
Mark,
I am having issues with the front passenger window of my ’04 Lincoln LS. The window rolls up but not down with the switch on both doors. Yet the autoreverse function still works so that I can crack the window by holding up on either switch. What would you guess is the issue?
Ryan: Your mechanic does have a valid point that the e-bay switch could be bad. Although I have never held an Isuzu master switch in my hand ( so I could be wrong) I have never seen a window switch that could not be tested. Using the wiring diagram for the circuit you should be able to test for power coming out of the switch to the individual windows. Also since you have an extra bad switch, maybe your mechanic could take apart the old switch and look for a repairable problem ( Like corroded contacts).
Mark,
I have a question for you. I have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper and am having an issue with the windows. The driver side works fine, but the other windows will only operate using the switches on their respective doors. The 3 non driver windows will not work from the master switch, only the driver side. (The lock button on the passenger door doesn’t work either, but might be unrelated) At first I thought it was the master switch, so I ordered one off ebay (used) and installed it, but there was no change. So then I figured it was a wiring issue and had my local mechanic test the circuits. He said everything seemed fine and that he thought it was the master switch. I told him I had already tried replacing it and he said “perhaps the replacement switch had the same issue?” Well, I guess that is possible, but I really don’t have $350 to spend on a new switch, so I kept digging for other causes. Haven’t found any, but have found out the power window relay is fine, and so are all the fuses. Any ideas? Do you think it is the master switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated! (And might save me from driving off the road while trying to lower my passenger window!)
Ryan
Mark,
My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT recently developed a problem with the driver’s power window. The window lowers normally, but when raised, the motor no longer stops automatically when the window is fully raised — it keeps turning as long as the switch is held up. The window also appears to be slightly loose when closed.
What can I use to lubricate the window rubber on a 2000 Nissan?
I would like some help with my 2007 Honda Civic. The windows do work however the automatic mode on the drivers door is causing me some trouble. When I pull the switch to the 2nd stage (auto) the window should go all the way up until closed however once the window hit the top it comes down about 5cm so I have to hold the switch up (manual mode) till the window is closed. I’ve been told this is a resistance problem but have no idea how to fix it ! Any help would be welcome- Cheers
BmW: You are not supposed to close the window permanently for safety reasons. It sounds like the window is off track or has a regulator problem. I recommend professional repair. Temporarily you can remove the door panel and push the glass up from the bottom. If the regulator is very messed up you may have to remove the attaching bolts. You can then custom cut a 2 x 4 and use it to jam the window in the closed position temporarily.
1991 Accord, rear power window goes up partway then stops and will not go back down but a few inches, just stuck in limbo midway. Can advance it up or down, well…slightly, from either switch. How can I pull it up so I can have the window closed even if it is forever?
Ed: Not uncommon for cooler temps to cause intermittent electrical problems. In a perfect world I would leave the door panel off to see whats wrong when you come out from work and do some testing. If you tap on the lift motor housing and it starts working then the motor should be replaced.
I work the 2nd shift and park my car outside in a parking lot. The last 3 nights when I start the car to go home the driver’s side power window won’t go down. After I get home and put the car in my garage for an hour or two the window works normally again. It seems this is a weather related problem but not related to below freezing temps. Any idea what might be causing the problem? (2006 chrysler sebring touring sedan.)—– Thanks, Ed
Julie: I have seen plenty of bad power window motors on the early 2000 Dodge Caravans and Chrysler mini vans. I have also seen a few broken regulator tapes. Short answer is the door panel has to come off to see whats wrong and do some testing. Note: That sometimes if you hold the switch in the down position (key on) and bang on the door panel (or kick it) the window sometimes starts to work. If it does this would indicate a failing window motor.
I have a 2002 Chrysler Voyager. The driver side window control has both the driver and passenger controls. The control will roll up and down the passenger side, but the driver side will not go up or down anymore. Any clue, I’m car stupid!?
1996 Lincoln Town Car: Right rear window Won’t go up. Goes down. Motor is working from either switch. Can press up with palm of hand while activating ‘up’ on motor but after some driving window drops about an inch.
Having problem with driver side power window will not operate at all it is in 2000 s10
Richard: Without knowing year make and model hard to say. BUT I can tell you most often in this situation I find a broken regulator tape (mostly on Chrysler models) or sometimes the track breaks loose from the glass and needs to be re bonded. And sometimes it’s an internal or striped gear inside the power window motor itself.
The motor in the left rear window runs, but the glass does not go up or down.