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	<title>Comments on: Manual Transmission Diagnosis</title>
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	<description>Auto Repair Information and Facts From MasterTechMark</description>
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		<title>By: NS</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-114897</link>
		<dc:creator>NS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jan 2012 16:15:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-114897</guid>
		<description>Makes a grindy whirring noise.  Sound coming from water pump area, but no leaks in that area. Car has 250K on it an all original parts, all under regular Toyota maintenance still, never missed one. Its a Yaris, 2007.  Cold days mainly, turn car on and noise is there, bad now, getting worse.  Last for several minutes, a few minutes past heat coming out of the inside heater fans, then 70 percent of it goes away. The last 30 percent goes completely away after 30 minutes or so of driving.    

This noise is there at idle and while driving, in or out of gear, and seems only dependent on rpm.  If while driving i put the clutch in it seems to go away but that&#039;s because I&#039;m also not giving it gas- give it gas while clutch is in and the noise is there.  It sounds a bit like the car going in reverse but louder so thinking maybe a bearing in transmission or in water pump but hoping water pump. Cant think of a 3rd option yet.  oh, all gears, shifting, etc, work fine- transmission has no problems in function. Still feels peppy, I can still squeal my tires if I rpm high then let off clutch…. Wife and cops hate it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Makes a grindy whirring noise.  Sound coming from water pump area, but no leaks in that area. Car has 250K on it an all original parts, all under regular Toyota maintenance still, never missed one. Its a Yaris, 2007.  Cold days mainly, turn car on and noise is there, bad now, getting worse.  Last for several minutes, a few minutes past heat coming out of the inside heater fans, then 70 percent of it goes away. The last 30 percent goes completely away after 30 minutes or so of driving.    </p>
<p>This noise is there at idle and while driving, in or out of gear, and seems only dependent on rpm.  If while driving i put the clutch in it seems to go away but that&#8217;s because I&#8217;m also not giving it gas- give it gas while clutch is in and the noise is there.  It sounds a bit like the car going in reverse but louder so thinking maybe a bearing in transmission or in water pump but hoping water pump. Cant think of a 3rd option yet.  oh, all gears, shifting, etc, work fine- transmission has no problems in function. Still feels peppy, I can still squeal my tires if I rpm high then let off clutch…. Wife and cops hate it.</p>
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		<title>By: brian</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-32527</link>
		<dc:creator>brian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Aug 2010 19:52:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-32527</guid>
		<description>Hi Mark got another question for you. would a set of heavy duty jump leads do to wire my van battery to my leisure battery and also my 500w inverter to my leisure battery. the price of battery cable is a rip off.
my inverter comes with 50w cables so if i got some heavy duty leads do you think they would do the job?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mark got another question for you. would a set of heavy duty jump leads do to wire my van battery to my leisure battery and also my 500w inverter to my leisure battery. the price of battery cable is a rip off.<br />
my inverter comes with 50w cables so if i got some heavy duty leads do you think they would do the job?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: brian</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-32190</link>
		<dc:creator>brian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:51:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-32190</guid>
		<description>Mark I had an auto guy look at it to day. He took it for a test drive and it sounded fine. in the end he put it down to thw way i was driving it. He told me that driving a van is not the same as a car and that I needed to give it a tini little bit more revs. Rigth enough, it did sound ok when he was driving. Better safe than sorry. so at the end of the day what I think  he was saying was, I have to stop  driving like a girl (grin) thanks for your reply.
Brian.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mark I had an auto guy look at it to day. He took it for a test drive and it sounded fine. in the end he put it down to thw way i was driving it. He told me that driving a van is not the same as a car and that I needed to give it a tini little bit more revs. Rigth enough, it did sound ok when he was driving. Better safe than sorry. so at the end of the day what I think  he was saying was, I have to stop  driving like a girl (grin) thanks for your reply.<br />
Brian.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-32143</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:45:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Hi Brian: Its hard to say exactly what your problem is with out an actual road-test. But from the way you describe your symptoms it would seem an inspection of the drive-line would be in order. Checking for any play from the out put shaft of the transmission would be a good place to start. Also sometimes when you get a shutter in only one gear range it can be an indication of an internal problem inside the transmission.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Brian: Its hard to say exactly what your problem is with out an actual road-test. But from the way you describe your symptoms it would seem an inspection of the drive-line would be in order. Checking for any play from the out put shaft of the transmission would be a good place to start. Also sometimes when you get a shutter in only one gear range it can be an indication of an internal problem inside the transmission.</p>
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		<title>By: Brian</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-32129</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:22:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-32129</guid>
		<description>Hi Mark. I just bougth a 2001 Toyota Hiace LWB van. I noticed that when changing from 3 -4 gears there is a violent shutter. This only seems to happens if i try to change from 3-4 doing 30-34mph. If i get the van to 34mph in third and then change to 4th gear the shutter is not as bad, if i wait to 36mph or a little more the shutter dose not happen. It seems the problem is only between 3rd and 4th. The guy i bought if from said that driving a van is not the same as driving a car and that you need to give it a bit more revs. I am a bit worried that it might be the fly wheel or clutch or even the gear box.
The van drives well apart from this, but when it happens it is really violent until I get past 35-38mph. any ideas what it might be. I could take to a mechanic but I would like to know what im talking about before giving it to someone who might take advantage. 
Brian.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mark. I just bougth a 2001 Toyota Hiace LWB van. I noticed that when changing from 3 -4 gears there is a violent shutter. This only seems to happens if i try to change from 3-4 doing 30-34mph. If i get the van to 34mph in third and then change to 4th gear the shutter is not as bad, if i wait to 36mph or a little more the shutter dose not happen. It seems the problem is only between 3rd and 4th. The guy i bought if from said that driving a van is not the same as driving a car and that you need to give it a bit more revs. I am a bit worried that it might be the fly wheel or clutch or even the gear box.<br />
The van drives well apart from this, but when it happens it is really violent until I get past 35-38mph. any ideas what it might be. I could take to a mechanic but I would like to know what im talking about before giving it to someone who might take advantage.<br />
Brian.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: eArio</title>
		<link>http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/10/13/manual-transmission-diagnosis/comment-page-1/#comment-17423</link>
		<dc:creator>eArio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Oct 2009 01:57:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=365#comment-17423</guid>
		<description>Hey, you might be having problems with your car. There is a website called eario.com. A new search engine that lists all the auto service centers, searching throughout service shops specialization,
and certification, to find the most relevant auto service station.
 
This will eliminate any unwanted information and create a small list of auto repair shops closest to you. 
It’s free, easy to use and extremely effective. I would truly recommend it, hope this helps with your car problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey, you might be having problems with your car. There is a website called eario.com. A new search engine that lists all the auto service centers, searching throughout service shops specialization,<br />
and certification, to find the most relevant auto service station.</p>
<p>This will eliminate any unwanted information and create a small list of auto repair shops closest to you.<br />
It’s free, easy to use and extremely effective. I would truly recommend it, hope this helps with your car problem.</p>
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