Comments on: Air Conditioning Auto Repairs http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/ Auto Repair Information and Facts From MasterTechMark Wed, 08 Feb 2012 02:37:54 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: nick http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-79471 nick Thu, 08 Sep 2011 02:43:17 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-79471 Hi Mark I got a 2003 Nissan Maxima with 50k miles. The a/c blows cool but not super cold like it used to. The pressures are 80 on the high side and 90 on the low side. I tapped on the expansion valve thinking it was possibly stuck but nothing changed. Bad compressor? what do you think? Hi Mark I got a 2003 Nissan Maxima with 50k miles. The a/c blows cool but not super cold like it used to. The pressures are 80 on the high side and 90 on the low side. I tapped on the expansion valve thinking it was possibly stuck but nothing changed. Bad compressor? what do you think?

]]> By: Deb http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-65879 Deb Fri, 15 Jul 2011 06:22:48 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-65879 We just had a new compressor and dryer replaced in a 04 Chrysler Pacifica. The air is cold but not as cold as it used to be with the old unit. The air feels the same no matter what setting its on. It has full range of temps. We are confused because it's all brand new parts. Any ideas? Thank you ;) We just had a new compressor and dryer replaced in a 04 Chrysler Pacifica.
The air is cold but not as cold as it used to be with the old unit. The air feels the same no matter what setting its on. It has full range of temps.
We are confused because it’s all brand new parts. Any ideas?
Thank you ;)

]]> By: Markos http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-37164 Markos Sat, 18 Sep 2010 14:12:53 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-37164 Dear Mark, I am driving one of the first Lexus models (1990) and the A/C is blowing super-cold, even at the midway level (between hot/cold) when it has freon. But it runs out in two to three days. I have no idea about cars and I'm kind of broke. Please give me advice (perhaps it may be fuse, connection?)...hopefully not a big leak! Thank you, Markos Dear Mark,

I am driving one of the first Lexus models (1990) and the A/C is blowing super-cold, even at the midway level (between hot/cold) when it has freon. But it runs out in two to three days. I have no idea about cars and I’m kind of broke. Please give me advice (perhaps it may be fuse, connection?)…hopefully not a big leak!

Thank you,

Markos

]]> By: Andrew Vilailack http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-36452 Andrew Vilailack Sun, 12 Sep 2010 03:28:37 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-36452 Mark: Thank you for your service and quick response. This means alots to me and others blogger. Mark: Thank you for your service and quick response. This means alots to me and others blogger.

]]> By: Mark http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-36233 Mark Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:06:29 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-36233 Andrew: The AC systems on a Mercedes can be very complicated. It might be best to have a dealer run a diagnostic test to confirm the problem. The list of possible causes is huge and I would not want to start guessing from the info you provided. Andrew: The AC systems on a Mercedes can be very complicated. It might be best to have a dealer run a diagnostic test to confirm the problem. The list of possible causes is huge and I would not want to start guessing from the info you provided.

]]> By: Andrew Vilailack http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-36154 Andrew Vilailack Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:27:17 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-36154 Mark, I own a 2000 Mercedes ML 430 SUV and the AC works intermittently. The AC will blow cold air at low to med high speed setting but not at high setting. If I drive drive the vehicle with AC running and turn on the AC later, the system will not blow cold air. When the AC is working the temperature of the blown air is 48 to 68 degree. I have to charge the freon once a year. Please help, I am confused. Mark,
I own a 2000 Mercedes ML 430 SUV and the AC works intermittently. The AC will blow cold air at low to med high speed setting but not at high setting. If I drive drive the vehicle with AC running and turn on the AC later, the system will not blow cold air. When the AC is working the temperature of the blown air is 48 to 68 degree. I have to charge the freon once a year. Please help, I am confused.

]]> By: Mark http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-2/#comment-34566 Mark Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:51:35 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-34566 Stephen: The way you started to describe your ac problem "at first" it sounded like a classic case of an evaporator freezing up. This is often caused by a defective expansion valve. But now that the condition has changed its hard to say. I would begin diagnosis with getting some low and high side pressure readings. I wrote about 10 articles on my other website about Diy auto ac repair http://www.youfixcars.com/auto-AC-repair.html Stephen: The way you started to describe your ac problem “at first” it sounded like a classic case of an evaporator freezing up. This is often caused by a defective expansion valve. But now that the condition has changed its hard to say. I would begin diagnosis with getting some low and high side pressure readings. I wrote about 10 articles on my other website about Diy auto ac repair http://www.youfixcars.com/auto-AC-repair.html

]]> By: Stephen Goode http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-34431 Stephen Goode Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:36:46 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-34431 Hello Mark, At one point my a/c was working fine but over a period of a few months I noticed that whenever I would run the a/c, it would blow cool air for about an hour before it would eventually get warmer. I would then turn the a/c off for a short time and then turn it back on. It would cool again but eventually get warmer. Now the air does not cool at all. How would you diagnose this? Hello Mark,
At one point my a/c was working fine but over a period of a few months I noticed that whenever I would run the a/c, it would blow cool air for about an hour before it would eventually get warmer. I would then turn the a/c off for a short time and then turn it back on. It would cool again but eventually get warmer. Now the air does not cool at all. How would you diagnose this?

]]> By: Chris http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-32263 Chris Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:04:18 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-32263 OK, checked everything out and I think I have determined that it is the field coil. It measures 1.6 ohms from the positive side to the outer casing of the compressor. OK, checked everything out and I think I have determined that it is the field coil. It measures 1.6 ohms from the positive side to the outer casing of the compressor.

]]> By: Chris http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-32253 Chris Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:09:23 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-32253 Thanks, I think I'll take these steps (as soon as it stops raining here). I'll unplug the compressor and try to turn on ac and see if the fuse blows at that point. I think that would rule out a grounding out problem and then measure from the hot wire on the compressor to the outer casing of it to ohm it out. Thanks for the reply. I read that depending on the manufacturer of my particular compressor it should ohm out to 3~4 ohms. I hope it's something simple, because I don't want to take that compressor out. It's in there pretty good. Worst case though, KIA does sell the individual components for the compressor. The clutch disc, pully and coil all have separate part numbers. Thanks, I think I’ll take these steps (as soon as it stops raining here). I’ll unplug the compressor and try to turn on ac and see if the fuse blows at that point. I think that would rule out a grounding out problem and then measure from the hot wire on the compressor to the outer casing of it to ohm it out. Thanks for the reply. I read that depending on the manufacturer of my particular compressor it should ohm out to 3~4 ohms. I hope it’s something simple, because I don’t want to take that compressor out. It’s in there pretty good. Worst case though, KIA does sell the individual components for the compressor. The clutch disc, pully and coil all have separate part numbers.

]]> By: Mark http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-32244 Mark Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:05:45 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-32244 Chris: A common cause of blowing a compressor fuse after a short run time is high resistance in the ac clutch coil. This is the device that when energized creates a magnetic field that pulls the ac clutch into the engaged position. You should be able to use your meter to get a resistance reading (HOT or after the fuse blows) and then compare that to the specifications in your manual. Note that other things can cause the fuse to blow. Just something you can check. Chris: A common cause of blowing a compressor fuse after a short run time is high resistance in the ac clutch coil. This is the device that when energized creates a magnetic field that pulls the ac clutch into the engaged position. You should be able to use your meter to get a resistance reading (HOT or after the fuse blows) and then compare that to the specifications in your manual. Note that other things can cause the fuse to blow. Just something you can check.

]]> By: Chris http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-32219 Chris Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:50:55 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-32219 Hello, I am trying to troubleshoot a sudden A/C failure on a 2006.5 Kia Optima EX V6 with auto climate control. I took it to a trusted shop and the tech said that he found two things. One: The fuse for the compressor clutch circuit (10A) was blown. Two: The pressures seemed a little high, however they were even on both sides. He replaced the fuse and did an evac and recharge and the system was working, however two miles down the road it failed again. The fuse had blown again. I replaced with a 15A spare and it worked just long enough to start blowing cold air before the fuse failed again. I have a basic knowledge of electrical circuits and own and know how to use a multimeter. I did measure with power off each leg of the fuse recepticle against the negative cable on the power distribution box under the hood and one leg is open and the other leg is reading short. I know that the open side most likely goes to the A/C relay so that should be normal. I'm just wondering if the other leg should read some resistance or straight short to ground. Luckily, I do have access to all wireing schematics and TSBs due to Kia making everything available online to anyone who wants to register. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hello, I am trying to troubleshoot a sudden A/C failure on a 2006.5 Kia Optima EX V6 with auto climate control. I took it to a trusted shop and the tech said that he found two things. One: The fuse for the compressor clutch circuit (10A) was blown. Two: The pressures seemed a little high, however they were even on both sides. He replaced the fuse and did an evac and recharge and the system was working, however two miles down the road it failed again. The fuse had blown again. I replaced with a 15A spare and it worked just long enough to start blowing cold air before the fuse failed again. I have a basic knowledge of electrical circuits and own and know how to use a multimeter. I did measure with power off each leg of the fuse recepticle against the negative cable on the power distribution box under the hood and one leg is open and the other leg is reading short. I know that the open side most likely goes to the A/C relay so that should be normal. I’m just wondering if the other leg should read some resistance or straight short to ground. Luckily, I do have access to all wireing schematics and TSBs due to Kia making everything available online to anyone who wants to register. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

]]> By: Monica http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-31786 Monica Tue, 20 Jul 2010 18:26:59 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-31786 I have a 90 Cadillac Deville and my a/c is blowing but it is not blowing cold air. We recently had freon put in it about a month and a half ago. We took it to a mechanic and he said he thinks it is the high and low switch. Is that what it could be? Is it a costly repair? Also the service transmission message keeps lighting up. When I shift the car into drive is usually the only "kick" I get from the car. We have just replaced the spark plug wires. And one more thing, the mechanic says it smells like out catalytic converter is going out. Does that have anything to do with the transmission? I thought it was an exhaust problem. I have a 90 Cadillac Deville and my a/c is blowing but it is not blowing cold air. We recently had freon put in it about a month and a half ago. We took it to a mechanic and he said he thinks it is the high and low switch. Is that what it could be? Is it a costly repair? Also the service transmission message keeps lighting up. When I shift the car into drive is usually the only “kick” I get from the car. We have just replaced the spark plug wires. And one more thing, the mechanic says it smells like out catalytic converter is going out. Does that have anything to do with the transmission? I thought it was an exhaust problem.

]]> By: Kevin http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-31514 Kevin Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:28:31 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-31514 Thanks Mark, I was headed that way since this seems to be very odd, and I do see frost build up from the accumulator to the orifice and slightly beyond it. Thank you and honor and praise to our men and women in uniform. Thanks Mark, I was headed that way since this seems to be very odd, and I do see frost build up from the accumulator to the orifice and slightly beyond it. Thank you and honor and praise to our men and women in uniform.

]]> By: Mark http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2009/03/29/air-conditioning-auto-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-31497 Mark Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:09:33 +0000 http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/?p=130#comment-31497 Kevin: The fluctuating low side readings from 26- 76 could be caused by several things including an internal compressor problem. But with your other readings it seems like there may be other issues like a partially clogged orifice tube. It may be in your best interest to pay for a diagnosis from a trusted AC repair shop. Kevin: The fluctuating low side readings from 26- 76 could be caused by several things including an internal compressor problem. But with your other readings it seems like there may be other issues like a partially clogged orifice tube. It may be in your best interest to pay for a diagnosis from a trusted AC repair shop.

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